If the difference is more than 5% (or 2% in some cases), you could be slowing frying the tool - but worse, you could be generating too much heat in your home's wiring. With a meter, you can measure voltage at the panel and the tool under load. There are published tables and on-line calculators for amps/distance/gauge/loss: You may not start a fire, but you may slowly cook your tools. So, long thin wires with more amps = worse. Longer, thinner wires have more resistance. Remember high-school physics: resistance generates heat: More resistance = more heat = more loss. For a small load like a benchtop sander, the total run would have to be around 100ft from the panel to hit 5%, assuming the proper gauge wire is run. There are a couple of loss guidelines in use depending on the type of load, but generally you want to stay within a few percent of panel voltage - let's just use the 5% guideline for argument's sake, but some types of load should be within 2% (I use the 2% guidance in my shop). Overall it is a good spindle sander with a decent motor that while it won’t be able to tackle on harder or bigger sanding jobs, it’s still a solid choice for non-heavy work. The few feet between outlets won't make a difference. =>at the end of the circuit where I have it plugged in? I do have two separate 20A outlet circuits in my shop FWIW. I thought that circuit was enough to handle both, but ,maybe not. That was a few days ago, today no luck starting it with nothing else going. I turned off the air compressor, and got the sander going with a little help. They were both plugged into the same circuit, 20A circuit.
The only thing I can say that I might have done was that I had a pancake air compressor running at the same time I was trying to start it up. I had this happen on a previous one and returned it, and then new one I got seemed fine until now. Initially, I was able to give it a little help, and it would take off. I've tried without the belt attachment or a spindle, and still no luck.
Basically, when I turn on the sander it makes a buzzing noise like the motor is trying but cannot turn the spindle. Hopefully you have a suggestion for a fix out there. I'm having some trouble with my ridgid oscillating belt/spindle sander, and I was wondering if anyone else has encountered this. But these industrial floor units were too large and. Oscillating spindle sanders have been in use in production shops for years.
#OSCILLATING SPINDLE SANDER FREE#
The result is a smoother edge on your workpiece, free of burn marks. I deducted two stars for having to correct the table when it should be level and smooth out of the box.Forgive me if I'm starting a thread that currently exists, but I didn't see it during my search. An oscillating spindle sander solves the problem by moving the sanding drum up and down, exposing more of the surface of the drum to the workpiece. However there is nothing I could do about the tapered edges. Once I did that the table was level and smooth as a baby's butt. I happen to own a surface plate large enough to attach some 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper and turn the sander upside down to remove these high and low spots and roughness. There are multiple high and low spots as well. Instead of square edges, they taper off to a slight curve downward. To me, it is a little rough cut and nonuniform. The only thing Triton can do to improve the sander is to do a little more work in the cast iron table before boxing it up. It does everything it is supposed to do with no unwanted surprises out of the box, except for. I am blessed to have them locally! So far this sander has performed flawlessly. I purchased my spindle sander last year from Peachtree Woodworking.
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